- Prices and Costs
- Sequence of work
- Let’s start to repair
- About “combined”
- Video: a lesson on self-repair of a bathroom
Repair the bathroom with your own hands to think in any case worth: the payment of works is not less than 50% of the cost materials, that is, independent repair will cost at least one and a half times cheaper, and the repair of the bathroom and toilet itself is expensive. But it is necessary to approach to business with all responsibility: repair of a bathroom demands not only thorough knowledge, but also enough high skill. Therefore, first of all, you should calculate the costs of independent repair, then carefully study the proposals of professionals and, if there is a master or a firm ready to make a bathroom repair inexpensively compared with your estimated costs, then contact them. In any case, the preparation for repair begins with the study of prices.
Materials for bathroom repair should be chosen carefully. In addition to the usual parameters, the moisture absorption coefficient (bathroom – a room with high humidity), the coefficient of temperature expansion (in the bathroom there are frequent sharp changes in temperature) and the porosity – it is important from a sanitary and hygienic point of view. So you can not count on “just to be cheaper”.
Exact data on the parameters of the materials will most likely not be found, and it is difficult to understand them to the layman, so you should choose materials specifically designed for bathrooms or for outdoor use. The prices for materials suitable for repairing the bathroom are approximately the following:
- Tile for floor – from 40 rubles / piece (30×30 cm) produced by the CIS and from 60 rubles / piece of European production with no better quality, but often the best decor.
- Tile for walls – the price per piece is the same, but the size of one tile is less.
- Ceramic granite tiles – from 50 rubles / piece.
- Glue, templates, crosses, grout for tiles – plus 50% of the cost per unit area.
- Glass-Magnesite sheet (SML) 1220×2440 mm – from 250 rubles / sheet.
- Laminate – from 300 rubles / board 300×2950 mm.
- The floor is from 220 rubles / 10 liters of the finished compound.
- The same, with the effect of warming (compound ThermoPlast) – from 640 rubles / sq. M.
- Teak or larch – from 500 rubles per square meter.
- Polypropylene PPN pipes for cold water – from 24 rubles / square meter.
- The same PPR for hot water (reinforced) – from 35 rubles / square meter.
- Pipes sewer 50 mm – from 45 rubles / square meter.
- Fittings for pipelines and stop valves – 60% of the price of pipes.
- Emulsion PVA – from 240 rubles / package 5 liters.
Being guided by these prices and knowing the floor area, ceiling and walls in your bathroom, you can estimate how much it costs to repair the bathroom when doing it yourself. When counting, consider the following:
- You do not need all the required material names. The selection criteria for a particular case are indicated below in the description of the work stages.
- All these materials are equivalent in quality of the final result. The use of cheaper materials only complicates the choice and delays the work.
- On the battle and waste of small tiles should be given a margin of 3-5% per piece: say, the area comes out 300 pcs. on the floor. It is necessary to purchase 310-315. If a small bathroom is being repaired, 5-7% should be spent on waste and battles.
- The removal of plate materials is calculated in preparation for the corresponding stage of work, see further in the sections.
- For other materials (cement, sand, putty, silicone, etc.), you need to add 35-40% to the sum obtained.
- The total time of the work will be at least 2 weeks for the bath and toilet and at least 2 months for the replacement of the floor screed.
- Prices for plumbing fixtures depend on your choice of names and manufacturers.
- Being guided by the prices, be sure to ask potential contractors not only the total cost of the work, but also their prices for individual materials. Good masters suppliers give a discount, and the prices will be below store. If it is more expensive, contact someone else: before you are either rasche-hackers, or ineptness.
- When choosing a towel warmer, consider a custom made version of stainless steel. Chromed brass often costs more, and other varieties are either very expensive (as, for example, with additional electric heating) or are of no use for quality.
- Also consider buying a mixer with an infrared sensor. It automatically turns on when hands are brought to it and gives water a predetermined temperature. The device is not cheap, but the real savings are approximately 50% (half!) Of water and 35-40% of electricity for its heating.
Sequence of work
Let’s say you decided that independent economical bathroom repair is within your power. In this case, you need to know that the bathroom repair work is carried out in a certain sequence:
- Selection of the number and range of sanitary devices.
- Development of design and selection of its colors.
- Calculation of quantity and purchase of finishing materials.
- Preparation of the room.
- Audit of the condition of the floor and the choice of the method of its repair.
- Purchase of materials for floor repair.
- Floor repair: waterproofing, screed replacement, insulation.
- Laying of pipelines.
- Laying of electrical wiring.
- Stucco walls and ceiling.
- Finishing of the ceiling: insulation and plating.
- Wall finishing: facing, grouting joints, sealing corners.
- Installation of ventilation.
- Installation and installation of plumbing.
As you can see, the recommended sequence of work differs somewhat from the traditional one. Explanations follow in the text; we, before describing how to make repairs in the bathroom, in addition we will clarify some important points:
- A warm wet bathroom is a favorable environment for the reproduction of microorganisms. Therefore, finishing methods like plasterboard on the crate are not considered: any blind cavity in the wall will sooner or later become a hotbed of infection.
- Bathroom by the degree of risk of electric shock – a particularly hazardous room: high humidity, high temperature, electrically conductive (wet for any type of coating) floor. Consequently, the issue of rosettes and switches in the bathroom is no longer possible – fraught with a risk to life and a considerable fine. How to circumvent this restriction, without formally breaking the rules and without exposing your life to danger, is described in detail in another article; here we give only general instructions.
- When planning work in the bathroom, the use of ordinary commercial wood, parts and fasteners made of plain steel with any coating, aluminum and other corrosive substances with constantly increased humidity or actively absorbing materials should be avoided in every possible way.
- In a small apartment it makes perfect sense to replace a bathtub with a shower; possibly combined with a corner sitting room. At the current prices for drinking water and hot water for the residents of budget housing to luxuriate in the bath is not often desirable, but in a small bathroom at the same time the space for the washing machine is freed.
Let’s start to repair
Plumbing and Design
How to start repairing the bathroom with your own hands? With the development of its design, and design – with the selection of sanitary ware. Let’s not be skittish about the combination of high and low materials: the complexity of repair and the costs for it depend to a large extent on these stages. For example: a washbasin-tulip simplifies the laying of pipes much, but requires for tiling of walls tiles of increased smoothness and without relief, otherwise from the stand under it the dirt on the walls will slowly disintegrate. The bath-mounted faucet also simplifies the work with the pipes, but then a separate mixer for the washbasin is needed.
It is impossible to list all the nuances, we will only tell you the fact: in the same apartments of the same house, the equally decorated bathrooms, with the same materials from the same vendor, differ by up to 20% for the cost of repairs. Given the total cost of such an expensive facility as a bathroom, the amount goes a long way. So – we think, we think, we estimate.
You can also see that in a conventional house about a mixer built into the wall, you can not even think: the possibility of this kind of luxury is laid at the design stage of the building. In typical houses, it is unacceptable to hollow out a niche under it.
The only suitable material for pipes is polypropylene. Metal plastics are more expensive and technically and economically more suitable for apartment heat distribution or extended pipelines with many bends. In the bathroom they are not observed, but here the gaskets in the fittings for metal-plastic once flow, propylene can also be welded into a solid monolith and without fear of hiding in the walls.
The article on working with polypropylene pipes is available on the link.
As for PVC or polyethylene, the pipes of them for a combination of properties are suitable for country houses, prefabricated panel houses and other cheap short-lived buildings. Steel pipes are still the cheapest, but as you know, they rust from the inside, it is difficult to work with them, and in their apartment or small private house all their cheapness comes to naught.
Tip: when choosing pipes, measure their outer diameter with a caliper. Otherwise, it may turn out that instead of one expensive diamond drill, you will have to buy two.
Fittings and fittings
About fittings for propylene is worth talking about. In the bathroom, where access to even open connections is difficult, fittings must only be used from solid plastic. The transition to the metal is permissible only when connected to consumers, for example, a boiler (see figure). It is with the help of such fittings that one can collect a whole water tap and hide it from sight, without thinking about leaks. Of course, this requires a special soldering iron.
Butt joints are completely unacceptable. Accordingly, if you need to connect two lengths of pipe, this is also done with a special clutch.
Stop valves – ball, but again, soldered into plastic, also see the picture on the right. For connection with metal – a branch pipe with thickened walls and carving in plastic. Practice shows that on hot pipes metal threaded liner eventually weakens, squeezed out and appears to leak.
For the floor the best choice is porcelain stoneware. It is only slightly more expensive than tiles, which in a small area pours out into pennies, but is much stronger and not slippery even with a smooth surface. The last thing in the bathroom is vitally important: the fractures and craniocerebral trauma of slipped in the bathroom are not the last place in the medical statistics for the ambulance.
When buying, be sure to check the accuracy of the dimensions and condition of the surface of the tiles:
- Demand from the seller a few pieces from different packages. Refuses – we go to another.
- Put the tiles on the pop on a flat surface close to each other in pairs and, turning 90 degrees, look at the top edge. If 3-4 pairs do not differ in size by more than 1 mm, you can take this lot after checking the face and glaze.
- Also we put pairs of tiles face-to-face with each other in pairs. Visible to the eye of the hillock, “trough” or “propeller” should not be.
- Further we take a tile, we bring close to eyes and we look along its surface against light. There are dots, cracks, micro-rainbow – we reject: in the bathroom it will soon accumulate mud, and you will not clean it.
Such high requirements for a bathroom tile are due not so much to aesthetics as to hygiene: invisible pollution becomes a hotbed of infection, and under the bath and monitor the condition of the surface, and wash it hard. Therefore, the options for “alternative” products are better and not considered at all.
Tool and glue
It is better to take the adhesive for tiles slowly drying – 12-24 hours. With self-packing, this will allow you to work slowly and eliminate flaws, without worsening the quality of the coating. In the first place again hygiene: the tile can still firmly hold, but in a tiny shell underneath, the microbes will find a cozy and inaccessible habitat for you.
The spatula for the glue should be chosen with the pitch and depth of the teeth indicated on the glue pack. If there are no such instructions, and this glue was previously tested and proved to be reliable, the teeth – from 3 to 6 mm. A large-toothed spatula for gluing the floor will give too high a rust of glue, and under the tile there will probably remain cavities.
Immediately, look after the tile cutter with a diamond core drill for the outer diameter of the pipes purchased. Templates for laying tiles – plastic crosses, with others in the bathroom will work hard. On smoothing for grouting joints you can not worry: instead of it, the cutoff of an electric cable with a diameter of 5-6 mm in vinyl insulation, see below, will perfectly go. But be sure to stock up on a flannel cloth (for the same grout), but it is better to buy 5-6 cheap microfiber napkins for cleaning glasses.
Other materials for bathroom repair are selected according to the usual criteria for construction work.
Preparation of premises
First of all you need to decide what to do with the old bathroom. If the cast iron – it is better to leave and refresh with an epoxy or acrylic compound. If tin, but without chips and enamels somehow fixed fistulas, the best solution is to install an acrylic liner. Well, and the “dead tin” is better to hand over to scrap metal and put in place acrylic. The new cast iron for quality and durability is not much better, and it will have to be tapped and risked damaging the newly installed decor.
Then turn off the water, disconnect the cold pipe after the tap on the flushing cistern and to the kitchen we throw the time, at least from the garden watering hose. Sit at the very least without water 10 days, at least this is exactly “and neither there nor syudy.” You just need not forget for the night or leaving the house to cover the outlets from the risers: the hose is a hose.
Then, from the bathroom, we remove everything to the bare walls. Sewage until you touch. Pipes of heating pipes, which are suitable for the towel dryer, are muffled with threaded plugs. We switch off the wiring of the bathroom in the junction box; for lighting during operation, you will need to use a portable lamp on the extension cord.
Now you can start cleaning the surfaces, starting from the ceiling. This work should be carried out in protective glasses and a respirator: there will be a lot of dust. But before we start tapping and trying to drill a NORMAL wall drill.
In the panel house of some “Brezhnev” projects, you can expect a “pleasant” surprise: an internal warming box of GVP (gypsum fiber boards). It must be removed; you will see the inside of the plates and the crate – you will understand why. The work is added, and with the ceiling you need to work carefully: substitute the props, so as not to collapse.
Old tiles knocked down by a perforator with a chisel over concrete. If the tile was laid on the cement slurry, it will be necessary to tinker: its remains should not be. We remove the paint and the top layer of plaster with a drill with a round metal brush 80-100 mm; this is the most dusty and unpleasant part of the work, so it’s better to house the house somewhere, and close the door to the bathroom tightly, or, if it’s already taken off, tighten it tightly with the film. Otherwise, upon the return of the household, as they say in Odessa, you will have something to listen to. And what to buy anew, especially furniture and carpets.
Suddenly the old plaster will be loose and fragile (in old houses – most often), remove it to concrete or brick on the walls. If you are lucky, and strong – level the drill with a sweeping brush, checking the level. There will be a lot of gimmicks, but in the future it will be refunded. Put the plaster over the electrical wiring with a perforator with a chisel (do not forget to turn it off in the junction box or on the dashboard!) And remove the wires.
Remains of the cement substrate under the tile from the floor are removed by a perforator with a chisel. If there are reasons not to touch the old screed (for example – once the washing machine has completely emptied, and not a drop has flowed to the neighbors), then it is better to use a Bulgarian with a diamond cup (cup-shaped sweep). The tool is expensive, but in the future work will pay off with interest.
Then follows a careful wet cleaning and a close inspection of the old screed. One crack means either overhauling the floor, replacing the screed, or pouring the liquid leveler. The last for the total costs of money, labor and time, is optimal, except for the case when a cast-iron bath remains or will be installed – its weight with water is more than permissible.
If you repair the bathroom in the Khrushchev, the flooring version is doubly attractive: for a small room, the costs even on expensive ThermoPlast will be insignificant compared to the general ones, and the equalizer can be poured directly over the old tile. And we immediately get the insulated floor. The layer of the filling floor, taking into account the shrinkage during solidification in 10%, should be at least 30 mm; from this calculation the necessary volume is determined. But in any case, a new waterproofing of the floor is needed.
Use for conventional waterproofing in the bathroom is not possible. It’s not for nothing that, as applied to the bathroom, they say “waterproofing” and not “vapor barrier”. Here there is no alternative material – aqua-isol or its analogues from polyester (polyethylene terephthalate). If you pour water in a bag of such a film, tie it up and hang it in July in the heart of the Karakum Mountains, then within a month the water will not decrease.
Joints of waterproofing are glued together with a special mastic, or welded with an industrial hair dryer. The latter requires skill, so first you need to practice on the pieces. Isolation is planted on walls at least 25 cm (4000 liters of leaked water per 10 sq. M, the strength of the overlapping by weight) with folds (without cuts!) At the corners. After laying insulation it is possible to fill the floor or make a new screed.
More about the waterproofing of the floor and the walls of the bathroom read here.
The composition for the bulk floor should be taken two-component: the initial, viscous fill – it does not leak to the neighbors – and then the leveling liquid or ThermoPlast.
To insulate the floor using claydite padding in the bathroom can not – very hygroscopic. Foam concrete or foam plastic also do not suit – are fragile. In fact, the only option is glass-magnesite slabs, LSU, especially since they are at the level of drywall. The strength of LSU allows you to immediately lay on them a reinforcement mesh and put beacons.
The composition of cement mortar for screed and the technology of its formation have some features:
- Cement – not less than 400 grades.
- Sand – quartz sifted.
- The proportion of sand to cement is 4: 1.
- Water – in a volume equal to the volume of cement.
- Addition to water of 10% by volume of emulsion PVA.
- Formation – by marker-beacons with a layer of 40-50 mm.
- After leveling the rule – the lapping to the smoothness of the polterom.
The latter is necessary, since in the bathroom flooring of the finishing floor on the logs is not possible, and in the case of the tiled floor, the base surface should also be perfectly even. Please note: the newly formed cement-sand screed before the continuation of the work should last at least 40 days.
Open pipelines in the bathroom do not please the eye, and the walls under them are long, dusty and tiring. In the block house to hide in the storm sewer is impossible: it will not allow the armature, but it can not be violated. In addition, welded joints are not made on the sewer pipes, which means that the sewage system should be accessible for inspection and repair, especially since it is clogged most often.
Proceeding from these considerations, we obtain a combined solution: we start all the tubes with a beam at the bottom and close it with a slope of galvanizing (see picture on the right). On the slope with silicone, the facing tiles are glued to the tone of the walls or contrasting, and the slope is glued to the walls and the floor after the finishing of the silicone. If necessary, the silicone is cut with a mounting knife, and after the work is finished, the slope can be glued again. In the bathroom, a typical slope layout is needed from the wall to the bathtub screen about as much as a meter.
Shtroby for pipes will also be needed, but in a minimal amount and short vertical: one – if the mixer is common; two – if in the washbasin your mixer; 3-4 – if the boiler is installed in the bathroom. The latter is far from the best option; the natural place of the boiler in the “rest house for want”; who did not read “1001 night” – in the toilet.
We begin the replacement of the pipelines from the sewage system: the sewage pipes are quickly assembled on seals with sealant. It is quite possible to deal with them in a day, and then without haste solder the water pipes. In the strobas, the pipes are frosted – this is an additional protection against fogging and heat loss, and electrical wiring is laid before the plaster.
Wiring is done with a wire in double insulation, tightened in corrugation. Most often use inexpensive plastic, but if during the repair it is supposed to replace the electrical wiring in the apartment, then a metal one is desirable – then all the wiring will be screened, which in all respects is good.
More on the topic:
- Sewerage in the apartment
- Replacement of electrical wiring
And what about the heat pipes of the heated towel rail? We change to metal plastic. In the wall (strobes need shallow) they will leave and come out with a bend; metal plastic can be bent. The lower fitting fittings will disappear under the slope, and the upper ones will remain where they were – on the dryer. Full cycle replacement towel dryer is described here.
Stucco is made necessarily by lighthouses – you need a smooth surface under the lining – and always in two layers: the starting “tenacious” and the finish even. You can not make hints: sharp changes in temperature and humidity will very soon remind you of this.
The protruding apron of the waterproofing is NOT cut: before the beginning of the plastering work, it is glued to the walls with scotch tape. Plaster is carried in the usual sequence – from the ceiling to the floor. In a close room, the plaster mixture is more convenient not to be thrown by the trowel, but to stick in portions of half a rubber ball. By the way, it is useful for any work with gypsum, alabaster, hardening compounds – crushed, and clean.
Warming of the ceiling
To warm the ceiling of the bathroom you need even in quite warm houses: this will reduce or eliminate the deposition of condensate, which is the main cause of all the bath-repair problems. As for the floor, the best option here is LSU, but now on a mounting glue or silicone (more expensive, but more reliable). Feature of the work – at the time of setting the adhesive you need a backup of the racks, 1-2 per meter. To calculate the amount of material and cut the sheets, see the next paragraph.
Sheathing of the ceiling
The ceiling is definitely a sore spot for the bathroom. We need a beautiful, warm (condensate!) And persistent (again – condensate!) For the totality of qualities, the most suitable material is laminate or plastic lining with some additions regarding preparation:
- Laminate is preliminarily processed from the wrong side by PVA emulsion.
- Laying is done on a mounting glue or building silicone.
- Before laying the next board on the ridge of its dowel is applied a thin, in a half-shine, “sausage” glue. Adhesive flows are immediately removed by rags soaked with solvent in the case of glue or table vinegar for silicone.
- The two last boards are stacked together: folded in a house, inserted into place, and pressed onto the joint until it snaps into place.
- Before the glue hardens, each board is supported by two rack mounts.
About the cutting of boards: The standard length of the laminate or lining board is 5.95 m, which is larger than most bathrooms. Therefore, when calculating, you need to calculate two options: along and across the ceiling. For example, in the “Khrushchev” bathroom 1,5×1,85 m when laying along the retreat will leave 0.4 m, and when laying across – 1.5 m. What is more profitable – decide on the circumstances. Perhaps, it is these meters and a half somewhere else that is just needed.
But will such a ceiling be reliable? With constant moisturizing? It’s unaccustomed somehow that the boards hang over your head just on the glue.
Firstly, the boards do not just hang, but are glued together on a tongue-and-groove lock, forming a solid shield. All at once he is unlikely to come off.
Secondly, pay attention that the ceiling casing is executed before the wall lining. After the cladding, the ceiling casing will lie on the ends of the tiles, and the corner is in any case sealed with silicone, see below. There are no intermediate joints. So the penetration of moisture under the roofing of the ceiling and its collapse are excluded.
Note: the hole for wiring should never be on the joint of the boards. At the end of the ceiling sheathing it is faded or filled with silicone.
Another common option of finishing the ceiling in the bathroom is the rack ceiling: you can read about it here. As for the tension ceilings, their self-assembly is rarely justified, so it is worthwhile to want to realize this option, except to study the criteria for choosing it for use in wet rooms.
Finishing the floor
The tiles on the floor are laid on the glue, but unlike the walls (see below) without seams. Adhesive flows are immediately removed, as described above. The glue is applied by a spatula with longitudinal smears of approximately 0.25-0.35 square meters; For tiles 30×30 cm – for one next tile.
Laying is carried out from the door, so that the cut tiles are under the bathroom and under the covering slope. Cropped rows (possibly, the penultimate one-piece) are stacked after the glue has set under the already laid, so as not to stamp on them and not to bring down the coating.
Each newly laid tile is taped with a rubber hammer from the previous one. They rattling in rows of blows, gradually moving to the free edge. It is important that under the tile there are no voids left, which is why the glue rust must be parallel, not very wide and deep.
Complete instructions for laying tiles on the floor and walls are here.
A separate issue is the wooden floor in the bathroom. He’s warm, it’s even nice to stand on his bare feet. And you can put a cast iron bath at any tie: the pressure of the legs will be distributed due to the elasticity of the wood. But the wooden floor for the bathroom requires a special design and will cost more than the slab.
The wood is suitable for teak and larch. After impregnating the PVA with an emulsion and finishing the liquid (deep penetration) with acrylic lacquer, it is possible not to think about longevity: larch piles, which still had the shore of Vasilievsky Island fortified under Peter the Great, still stand. But boards or tiles for such a floor should be taken sheeted and laid in a similar manner to the ceiling, but with an indentation from the walls of 20-25 mm for the swelling of the wood. Clearance before installing skirting boards must be filled with polyurethane foam – there should not be any cavities!
Most often, the bathroom walls are tiled. Ceramic granite is also suitable, but it is still more expensive, and nothing is dropped on the walls or spilled; the spray does not count. Recently, the decoration of the bathroom with plastic panels has become widespread, inexpensive and hygienic, but the description of materials for it and the methods of work is the subject of a separate article.
Cladding of walls with tile is done with cutting of seams, for which when tiling is applied to the glue between tiles, first the crosses are inserted. The technology of laying is the same as for the floor. In the tiles, which will come to the terminals of pipes and electrical wiring, a hole in the hole is drilled in advance with a diamond bit.
Note: if the design uses a mixer with decorative caps, the crown is bought more than the diameter pipes. Otherwise, measuring the places under the holes is akin to jewelry art.
After the glue hardens, first tighten the corners with silicone. On a sausage of silicone through a thin polyethylene film impose a piece of an electrocable, press and there and then clean. The silicone is pressed into the seam and a smooth concave surface is formed. Flows and rushes of silicone are removed with rags and vinegar. In addition, the corner seam can be covered after cutting the rest with a decorative patch on the same silicone.
The cutting of joints on the plane is carried out by a special composition – it is cheaper than silicone, but not a sealant. Take out crosses, fill the seam, press a piece of cable (it is now possible without a film) and immediately, without delay, remove the remnants of flannel or microfiber. Cutting the seams with a finger leaves microroughness, which will accumulate dirt.
Plumbing, ventilation and electricians
Installation and installation of plumbing fixtures is not specific and has been described many times. In particular, you will:
- Install a bathtub, a washbasin, in some cases a shower.
- Install the mixers.
- Set or replace water meters.
- On request – connect the water heater.
When installing ventilation, inspect the old one, which was removed during the preparation for repair. In most cases, even the box of the very first Khrushchev’s after cleaning and repainting are quite suitable for further use. In this case, it is immediately desirable to mount a flap valve in it: a cold blowing in the winter is excluded.
From the stationary electrical appliances in the bathroom, the exhaust fan and the ceiling luminaire in the waterproof version are permissible. The fan must also be adapted to moisture: a three-core cord, with a protective conductor and an euro plug, with an integral seal (cast) inlet into the housing. Washing machine for stationary electrical installations does not apply; its connection when installing in the bathroom – a special article.
Repair of the bathroom, combined with the toilet – how to be here? Surely there are some nuances. Yes, there are enough features to repair a combined bathroom. Therefore, their discussion is the subject of a separate conversation.
Independently undertaking the repair of the bathroom, you can save a lot: the event is expensive, and the wages of workers is a considerable part of the cost. But you can do a lot and guess: the work is complex, responsible, requires both basic knowledge and a good qualification of the builder.
Video: a lesson on self-repair of a bathroom